Achyrocline satureioides Hydroalcoholic Extract as a Hypoallergenic Antimicrobial Substitute of Natural Origin for Commonly Used Preservatives in Cosmetic Emulsions.

Achyrocline satureioides is a South American herb used in traditional medicine to treat a wide range of ailments. The healing and antimicrobial effects of this plant have already been covered by many studies, which have confirmed its beneficial effects on human health. In this study, the antimicrobial effect of A. satureioides hydroalcoholic extract against Escherichia coli ATCC10536, Staphylococcus aureus ATCC25923, Staphylococcus epidermidis ATCC12228 and Lactobacillus acidophilus INCQS00076 was determined. The cytotoxicity of the extract was tested on human HaCaT keratinocytes showing very favourable effects on the proliferation and renewal of keratinocytes. According to the results of the HPLC and GC-MS analyses, the lyophilized extract contained only a minimal amount of fragrance allergens. The extract was then used in two cosmetic formulations, and one of them showed a significant synergistic interaction with other cosmetic components. We suggest the use of A.satureioides hydroalcoholic extract as a suitable antimicrobial component of natural origin for cosmetic preparations as a substitute for commonly used preservatives that can cause skin irritation and as a material with its own biological activity.

In Vitro Skin Co-Delivery and Antibacterial Properties of Chitosan-Based Microparticles Containing Ascorbic Acid and Nicotinamide.

Vitamins are widely found in nature, for example, in plants and fruits. Ascorbic acid and nicotinamide are examples of these compounds that have potent antioxidant properties, besides stimulating collagen production and depigmenting properties that protect the skin from premature aging. To overcome the skin barrier and reduce the instability of antioxidant compounds, alternative systems have been developed to facilitate the delivery of antioxidants, making them efficiently available to the tissue for an extended time without causing damage or toxicity. The objective of this study was to obtain chitosan biodegradable microparticles containing ascorbic acid and nicotinamide for topical delivery. The microparticles were obtained by spray drying and characterized chemically by means of scanning electron microscopy, infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, and differential exploratory calorimetry. The drugs were successfully encapsulated and the microparticles showed positive zeta potential. In vitro release assays showed a sustained release profile. The evaluation of ex vivo skin permeation and retention demonstrated low permeation and adequate retention of the compounds in the epidermis/dermis, suggesting the efficient delivery from the obtained microparticles. Antibacterial assays have shown that microparticles can inhibit the growth of microorganisms in a time- and dose-dependent manner, corroborating their use in cosmetic products for application on the skin.

In vitro evaluation of the cytotoxicity and eye irritation potential of preservatives widely used in cosmetics

Abstract The consumption of cosmetics has been increasing every year and is expected to reach $675 billion by 2020 at an estimated growth rate of 6.4% per year. Exposure to skin irritants is the major cause of non-immunological inflammation of the skin. Therefore, the safety evaluation of cosmetic preservatives should be increased. Thus, the present work aimed to evaluate the cytotoxicity as the viability endpoint and the eye irritation potential of preservatives used in cosmetics. Cytotoxicity assays were performed using MTT and NRU in human keratinocytes (HaCaT), human dermal fibroblasts, adult (HDFa), and human hepatoma cells (HepG2). The eye irritation potential was evaluated using the Hen's Egg Test-chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM). The evaluated preservatives were methylparaben (MP), propylparaben (PP), phenoxyethanol (PE), and a mixture of methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone (CMI/MI). All preservatives showed cytotoxic potential within the permitted concentrations for use in cosmetic products. In the HET-CAM test, PE and CMI/MI, MP, and PP were classified as severe, moderate, and poor irritants, respectively. Our results indicate that proper safety evaluations are required to ensure the beneficial properties of preservatives on cosmetic products without exceeding exposure levels that would result in adverse health effects for consumers.

New and potential properties, characteristics, and analytical methods of ferulic acid: A review

Abstract Phenolic compounds are widely distributed in the plant kingdom and in the microorganisms. Cinnamic acid and its hydroxylated derivative-ferulic acid, are phenolic compounds. Ferulic acid possesses antioxidant potential, as well as anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It prevents the harmful effects of radiation both as an ultraviolet absorber and as a free radical scavenger; it is not cytotoxic. Although ferulic acid has beneficial properties, it is hardly used in cosmetic preparations and has been rarely studied in the literature. Herein, we review the literature on ferulic acid, to provide information which can contribute to further research on the compound.

Synthesis and evaluation of 1,3,5-triazine derivatives as sunscreens useful to prevent skin cancer.

The incidence of skin cancers such as non-melanoma skin cancer and malignant melanoma has increased in the last few years mainly because of chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Sunscreens protect the skin against harmful UV radiations; however, some limitations of these products justify the discovery of new UV filters. Novel 1,3,5-triazine derivatives (12a-h) obtained by the optimization of prototype resveratrol were synthesized and characterized. All compounds exhibited sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVAPF) in the range of 3-17 and 3-13, respectively. These values were superior to resveratrol and the UV filter ethylhexyl triazone (EHT) currently available on the market. In addition, all compounds demonstrated in vitro antioxidant activity and thermal stability with the decomposition at temperatures above 236 °C. In conclusion, the novel 1,3,5-triazine derivatives have emerged as new UV filters with antioxidant effect useful to prevent skin cancer.

Caffeic acid skin absorption: Delivery of microparticles to hair follicles.

Caffeic acid (CA) is a polyphenol that can be found in a wide range of vegetal dietary sources. It presents a remarkable antioxidant potential, but what is more interesting from the therapeutic point of view is, that it has demonstrated in vitro antimicrobial properties. Folliculitis is a common skin condition, usually caused by a bacterial or fungal infection, in which hair follicles become inflamed. A typical challenge in dermal application when the actives diffuse passively through the skin in a quick manner, as it is the case of CA, is to provide the effective concentration of the compound at the target site for the sufficient time to finalize the treatment adequately and reduce the possibility to trigger systemic side effects. To achieve this goal, it is necessary to appropriately design the drug delivery system. In this case, we leverage the ability of microparticles to accumulate into the hair follicles to design O/W-emulsions containing CA-loaded controlled-release microparticles. Two different emulsion types containing CA were prepared, one containing free CA and the other containing microencapsulated CA. Traditional and differential tape stripping techniques were performed to investigate drug distribution within the different skin layers and into the hair follicles. The Tape stripping results demonstrated that the tapes S3-S5 and S6-S10 presented a higher total amount of CA. The strips are collected and extracted in groups to assure the extraction of quantifiable amounts of drug. Samples S11-15 and S16-20 show a decrease in the amount of quantified CA, as it was expected. Thus, it can be seen that the amount of active decreases while the stratum corneum depth increases. The retention studies demonstrated that, the microparticles tend to produce a more homogeneous distribution of CA, within the stratum corneum and a higher retention into the hair follicle, which can be attributed to their size and uniformity. Besides, MPs present an additional advantage because they guarantee a continuous release of CA in the target for a prolonged period, allowing the treatment of folliculitis with a single dose until the MPs are removed from the hair follicle by its natural regeneration process or particle depletion of CA.

In vitro methods to determine the antioxidant activity of caffeic acid.

Caffeic acid (CA) is a plant metabolite acting as a carcinogenic inhibitor, and exhibits a high antioxidant effect and some antimicrobial activity. Besides, this compound can be useful in the prevention of heart diseases and atherosclerosis, among others. The present study aims to determine the in vitro antioxidant activity of CA in order to increase the frequency of its use and reliability in the prevention of damage caused by free radicals and other reactive species. The tests performed were as follows: Radical anion superoxide capture; crocin bleaching assay; capturing ability of hypochlorous acid; H2O2 capture; capturing capacity of the ABTS•+/DPPH•; and SOD-like activity. The values of the CA antioxidant activity were very close to the values of standards in all tests. Besides, CA presented an antioxidant activity greater than that of ascorbic acid and trolox, and its advantages include higher stability than ascorbic acid and extraction from natural sources, as opposed to trolox.

Release and permeation profiles of spray-dried chitosan microparticles containing caffeic acid.

Caffeic acid (CA), a phenolic compound found in plants with antioxidant and antimicrobial activity, induces collagen production and prevents premature aging of the skin. The objective of this study was to develop two types of chitosan microparticles (MP) containing CA and to relate the morphology with the release and permeation profiles. One type of MP was prepared from a hydroalcoholic solution (MPI) and the other from an aqueous solution (MPII). Their morphology and size was evaluated by high-resolution scanning electron microscopy. The release profile of CA was evaluated using the cellulose membrane from the two MPs in Franz diffusion cells and the permeation profile was evaluated using human abdominal skin samples; the epidermal membranes were prepared by the heat-separation technique. MPII was spherical with a smooth surface, suitable for the controlled release of substances, whereas MPI was porous with non-internalized residual material. This result was consistent with their release and permeation profiles because MPII exhibited a slower and more controlled release than MPI. Thus, the method of preparation of MP and their composition influence the release profile of CA. Therefore, the production conditions must be closely controlled.

Compatibility of Metarhizium anisopliae with liposoluble photoprotectants and protective effect evaluation against solar radiation / Compatibilidade de Metarhizium anisopliae com fotoprotetores lipossolúveis e avaliação do efeito protetor contra a radiação solar

The aim of this study was to analyze the compatibility of the Metarhizium anisopliae JAB 68 isolate with liposoluble photoprotectants and the photoprotection conferred to its conidia. The fungus was cultivated in a medium with the photoprotectants Neo Heliopan® BB, Neo Heliopan® E 1000, Eusolex® 6007 and Neo Heliopan® AV in various concentrations. Vegetative growth, sporulation and germination were assessed to determine compatibility. Then, conidia were suspended in oil containing the compatible photoprotectants, in their respective concentrations, and exposed to 0-7 hours of light from a solar simulator operating at 1,000 W m-2. Neo Heliopan BB® and Neo Heliopan® E 1000 were compatible with M. anisopliae at 2% and 1%, respectively. Eusolex® 6007 and Neo Heliopan® AV were compatible up to 8% a 7%, respectively. Conidia exposed to radiation from the solar simulator, with photoprotectant-free oil as its carrier, presented germination of 78.12% after five hours. When adding any photoprotectant to the conidia oily suspension, the germination percentage was always higher than that obtained in the control. Neo Heliopan® BB at 1 and 2% and Neo Heliopan® AV at 0.5% increased the germination. After 7 hours of exposure the germination percentages were 93.77, 94.55 and 98.82%, respectively. Eusolex® 6007 was not as efficient as previous products, but in the same exposure period was able to protect the conidia (88.60% germination) when used at a 1% concentration. Adding photoprotectants in oily formulations of M. anisopliae protects against the harmful effects of UV radiation contributing to the fungus efficiency in the field.

O objetivo desse trabalho foi analisar a compatibilidade do isolado JAB 68 de Metarhizium anisopliae com fotoprotetores lipossolúveis e a fotoproteção conferida aos seus conídios. O fungo foi cultivado em meio contendo os fotoprotetores Neo Heliopan® BB, Neo Heliopan® E 1000, Eusolex® 6007, Neo Heliopan® AV em várias concentrações. O crescimento vegetativo, a esporulação e a germinação foram avaliados para determinar a compatibilidade. Conídios foram suspensos em óleo contendo os fotoprotetores compatíveis, em suas respectivas concentrações, e submetidos por 0 a 7 horas à luz de um simulador solar na potência de 1.000W m-2. Neo Heliopan BB® e Neo Heliopan® E 1000 foram compatíveis com M. anisopliae à 2% e 1%, respectivamente. Eusolex® 6007 e Neo Heliopan® AV foram compatíveis até 8% e 7%, respectivamente. Conídios de M. anisopliae expostos à radiação do simulador solar, tendo óleo isento de fotoprotetor como veículo, apresentaram germinação de 78,12% após cinco horas. Adicionando-se qualquer fotoprotetor à suspensão oleosa de conídios a porcentagem de germinação foi sempre maior que a obtida no controle. Neo Heliopan® BB a 1 e 2% e Neo Heliopan® AV a 0,5% incrementaram a germinação. Após 7 horas de exposição as porcentagens de germinação foram de 93,77, 94,55 e 98,82%, respectivamente. Eusolex® 6007 não foi tão eficiente quanto os produtos anteriores, mas no mesmo período de exposição foi capaz de proteger os conídios (88,60% de germinação) quando usado na concentração de 1%. A adição de fotoprotetores em formulações oleosas de M. anisopliae confere proteção aos raios UV, contribuindo com a eficiência do fungo no campo.

Oxybutynin as an alternative treatment for hyperhidrosis.

Hyperhidrosis is the excessive production of sweating, which can be primary and focal or secondary to various pathologies. The exact cause of primary focal hyperhidrosis is still unknown, although a genetic basis is recognized, and its prevalence varies from 1% to 2.8%. The most affected sites are the armpits, palms, soles and face. It causes much discomfort, affects the quality of life, and is estimated to be undervalued by health professionals. Many treatment options are proposed, both clinical and surgical. The aim of this review is to focus on the treatment of hyperhidrosis with oxybutynin, an anticholinergic drug originally used to control overactive bladder.

Oxybutynin as an alternative treatment for hyperhidrosis

Abstract: Hyperhidrosis is the excessive production of sweating, which can be primary and focal or secondary to various pathologies. The exact cause of primary focal hyperhidrosis is still unknown, although a genetic basis is recognized, and its prevalence varies from 1% to 2.8%. The most affected sites are the armpits, palms, soles and face. It causes much discomfort, affects the quality of life, and is estimated to be undervalued by health professionals. Many treatment options are proposed, both clinical and surgical. The aim of this review is to focus on the treatment of hyperhidrosis with oxybutynin, an anticholinergic drug originally used to control overactive bladder.

Guava: phytochemical composition of a potential source of antioxidants for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications

ABSTRACT Guava (Psidium guajava L.) is a native fruit of the American tropics with commercial applications for its taste, flavor and aroma. Numerous pharmacological uses have been described for it, such as the antiseptic effect of its leaves, the use of the fresh fruit and tea from its leaves for the treatment of diarrhea, dysentery, diabetes mellitus, and others. However, considering its rich composition, the guava also is a potential source of antioxidants to be used in the development of new formulations for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications, the main focus of this research. Herein, we describe the study of the phytochemical composition and the antioxidant activity of a guava extract prepared with non-toxic solvents aiming its use at biological applications. High performance liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry were employed to identify the major components, while thermoanalytical measurements and hot stage microscopy were used to assess the chemical stability of guava fruit extract. The antioxidant activity was also evaluated assessing the SOD-like activity and ABTS free radical scavenger. The results show that the extract is a rich source of phenolic compounds, such as quercetin, kaempferol, schottenol, among many others. All of the components found in guava extract exhibit biological effects according to the literature data, mainly antioxidant properties.

Validation of HPLC-UV Assay of Caffeic Acid in Emulsions.

An accurate, sensitive, precise and rapid reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatographic method was successfully developed and validated for the determination of caffeic acid (CA) in emulsions. The best separation was achieved on a 250 × 4.6 mm, 5.0 µm particle size RP18 XDB Waters column using ethanol and purified water (40:60 v/v) adjusted to pH 2.5 with acetic acid as the mobile phase at a flow rate of 0.7 mL/min. Ultraviolet detection was performed at 325 nm at ambient column temperature (25°C). The method was linear over the concentration range of 10-60 µg/mL (r(2) = 0.9999) with limits of detection and quantification of 1.44 and 4.38 µg/mL, respectively. CA was subjected to oxidation, acid, base and neutral degradation, as well as photolysis and heat as stress conditions. There were no interfering peaks at or near the retention time of CA. The method was applied to the determination of CA in standard and pharmaceutical products with excellent recoveries. The method is applicable in the quality control of CA.

Antioxidant Activity and Validation of Quantification Method for Lycopene Extracted from Tomato.

Lycopene is a carotenoid found in tomatoes with potent antioxidant activity. The aim of the study was to obtain an extract containing lycopene from four types of tomatoes, validate a quantification method for the extracts by HPLC, and assess its antioxidant activity. Results revealed that the tomatoes analyzed contained lycopene and antioxidant activity. Salad tomato presented the highest concentration of this carotenoid and antioxidant activity. The quantification method exhibited linearity with a correlation coefficient of 0.9992. Tests for the assessment of precision, accuracy, and robustness achieved coefficients with variation of less than 5%. The LOD and LOQ were 0.0012 and 0.0039 µg/mL, respectively. Salad tomato can be used as a source of lycopene for the development of topical formulations, and based on performed tests, the chosen method for the identification and quantification of lycopene was considered to be linear, precise, exact, selective, and robust.

Structural characterization and in vitro antioxidant activity of kojic dipalmitate loaded w/o/w multiple emulsions intended for skin disorders.

Multiple emulsions (MEs) are intensively being studied for drug delivery due to their ability to load and increase the bioavailability of active lipophilic antioxidant, such as kojic dipalmitate (KDP). The aim of this study was to structurally characterize developed MEs by determining the average droplet size (Dnm) and zeta potential (ZP), performing macroscopic and microscopic analysis and analyzing their rheological behavior and in vitro bioadhesion. Furthermore, the in vitro safety profile and antioxidant activity of KDP-loaded MEs were evaluated. The developed MEs showed a Dnm of approximately 1 micrometer and a ZP of -13 mV, and no change was observed in Dnm or ZP of the system with the addition of KDP. KDP-unloaded MEs exhibited ''shear thinning" flow behavior whereas KDP-loaded MEs exhibited Newtonian behavior, which are both characteristic of antithixotropic materials. MEs have bioadhesion properties that were not influenced by the incorporation of KDP. The results showed that the incorporation of KDP into MEs improved the safety profile of the drug. The in vitro antioxidant activity assay suggested that MEs presented a higher capacity for maintaining the antioxidant activity of KDP. ME-based systems may be a promising platform for the topical application of KDP in the treatment of skin disorders.

Multifunction hexagonal liquid-crystal containing modified surface TiO2 nanoparticles and terpinen-4-ol for controlled release.

Multifunctional products have been developed to combine the benefits of functional components and terpinen-4-ol (TP) delivery systems. In this way, p-toluene sulfonic acid modified titanium dioxide (TiO2) nanoparticles and TP, an antioxidant, have been incorporated in liquid-crystalline formulations for photoprotection and controlled release of the TP, respectively. By X-ray powder diffraction and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy, we noted that using p-toluene sulfonic acid as a surface modifier made it possible to obtain smaller and more transparent TiO2 nanoparticles than those commercially available. The liquid-crystalline formulation containing the inorganic ultraviolet filter was classified as broad-spectrum performance by the absorbance spectroscopy measurements. The formulations containing modified TiO2 nanoparticles and TP were determined to be in the hexagonal phase by polarized light microscopy and small-angle X-ray scattering, which makes possible the controlled released of TP following zero-order kinetics. The developed formulations can control the release of TP. Constant concentrations of the substance have been released per time unit, and the modified TiO2 nanoparticles can act as a transparent inorganic sunscreen.

Rheology as a Tool to Predict the Release of Alpha-Lipoic Acid from Emulsions Used for the Prevention of Skin Aging.

The availability of an active substance through the skin depends basically on two consecutive steps: the release of this substance from the vehicle and its subsequent permeation through the skin. Hence, studies on the specific properties of vehicles, such as their rheological behavior, are of great interest in the field of dermatological products. Recent studies have shown the influence of the rheological features of a vehicle on the release of drugs and active compounds from the formulation. In this context, the aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of the rheological features of two different emulsion formulations on the release of alpha-lipoic acid. Alpha-lipoic acid (ALA) was chosen for this study because of its antioxidant characteristics, which could be useful for the prevention of skin diseases and aging. The rheological and mechanical behavior and the in vitro release profile were assayed. The results showed that rheological features, such as viscosity, thixotropy, and compliance, strongly influenced the release of ALA from the emulsion and that the presence of a hydrophilic polymer in one of the emulsions was an important factor affecting the rheology and, therefore, the release of ALA.

Sustainability, natural and organic cosmetics: consumer, products, efficacy, toxicological and regulatory considerations

The interest in sustainable products has increased along the years, since the choice of products, packaging and production processes have a great impact on the environment. These products are classified by regulatory agencies in different categories, aggregating advantages to the product and increasing the demand by consumers. However, there is no harmonization in guidelines of these certifying agencies and each cosmetic industry formulates their product and packaging in a more rational way, which causes less damage to the environment. Many cosmetic products have in their formulation natural products that perform a specific biological function, but these products should be evaluated on efficacy and toxicological aspects. The aim of this article is to approach sustainability, natural and organic cosmetics, considering the consumer and the efficacy, toxicological and regulatory aspects.

O interesse por produtos sustentáveis tem aumentado ao longo dos anos, desde a escolha dos produtos, embalagens e processos de produção tendo um grande impacto sobre o meio ambiente. Estes produtos são classificados por agências reguladoras em diferentes categorias, agregando vantagens ao produto e aumentando a demanda por parte dos consumidores. No entanto, não existe uma harmonização nas diretrizes destes órgãos de certificação e cada indústria cosmética formula seu produto e embalagem de uma forma mais racional, levando a menos danos ao meio ambiente. Muitos produtos cosméticos têm produtos naturais na formulação que executam uma função biológica específica, porém estes produtos devem ser avaliados quanto a sua eficácia e toxicidade. O objetivo deste artigo é abordar a sustentabilidade, cosméticos naturais e orgânicos, considerando os aspectos regulatórios, do consumidor e os aspectos de eficácia e toxicológicos.

Development and evaluation of an emulsion containing lycopene for combating acceleration of skin aging

Lycopene, a carotenoid and potent antioxidant is found in large quantities in tomatoes. Lycopene combats diseases, such as cardiovascular disease and different types of cancer, including prostate cancer. However, its topical use in emulsion form for the combat of skin aging is under-explored. The aim of the present study was to develop an emulsion containing lycopene extracted from salad tomatoes and evaluate its cytotoxicity, stability, rheological behavior, antioxidant activity and phytocosmetic permeation. The developed cosmetic comprised an oil phase made up of shea derivatives and was evaluated in terms of its physiochemical stability, spreadability, thermal analysis, rheological behavior, microbiological quality, cytotoxicity, antioxidant activity, cutaneous permeation and retention. The results demonstrate that this phytocosmetic is stable, exhibits satisfactory rheological behavior for a topical formula and is a promising product for combating skin aging.

Licopeno é um carotenóide com potente atividade antioxidante encontrado em grande quantidade no tomate e usado no combate a diversas doenças como doenças cardiovasculares e diferentes tipos de cânceres, incluindo o câncer de próstata. O objetivo desse trabalho foi desenvolver uma emulsão contendo extrato de licopeno obtido do tomate salada e avaliar a citotoxicidade do extrato, a estabilidade, o comportamento reológico, atividade antioxidante e permeação do fitocosmético. O cosmético foi desenvolvido utilizando fase oleosa contendo derivados de Karité e submetido à avaliação da estabilidade físico-química, espalhabilidade, análise térmica, comportamento reológico, qualidade microbiológica, citotoxicidade, atividade antioxidante e testes de permeação e retenção cutânea. Os resultados demonstraram que o fitocosmético é estável, apresenta comportamento reológico desejável para uma formulação tópica e é um produto promissor para ser utilizado no combate à aceleração do envelhecimento cutâneo.

Synthesis, antioxidant and photoprotection activities of hybrid derivatives useful to prevent skin cancer.

Chronic ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure is a major cause of skin cancer. A novel series of hybrid derivatives (I-VIII) for use in sunscreen formulations were synthesized by molecular hybridization of t-resveratrol, avobenzone, and octyl methoxycinnamate, and were characterized. The antioxidant activity values for VIII were comparable than to those of t-resveratrol. Compounds I-III and VI demonstrated Sun Protector Factor superior to that of t-resveratrol. Compounds I and IV-VIII were identified as new, broad-spectrum UVA filters while II-III were UVB filters. In conclusion, novel hybrid derivatives with antioxidant effects have emerged as novel photoprotective agents for the prevention of skin cancer.